Friday, 8 December 2017

Looking around Prague - Friday 8 December

We'd bought a few things at a local Tesco (yes, it's in Prague) for breakfast, so made up a nice omelette before heading out exploring. We didn't have many firm plans for our Prague stay - look at the architecture, visit a few museums, look for some Bohemian glassware, and perhaps visit the Skoda factory and museum. We'd seen the museum in 2011, but missed out on the factory tour as it was one of just 3 days a year that it closes.

First destination was the main square, Staroměstské Náměstí. As expected it was full of Christmas market stalls, much like Krakow's square. The same lovely scent of mulled wine was everywhere. Slightly different food, especially trdlniks, or chimney cakes. The square was packed with both locals and tourists. Plenty of Italian and Spanish voices about for some reason.

Having seen the square we walked around the Jewish quarter, partly because I wanted to see if I could find some more little Bohemian heavy glasses that I bought two of last time in Prague. I'd found them at one little antique shop, and we tried to find it again. We found a number of antik shops, and one which had some perfect glasses. I bought a pair of delicious uranium glass stem glasses and one deco shot glass - I was delighted particularly with the uranium glass pair as the style was lovely, with the acid yellow-green of uranium glass. We didn't manage to get to the previous visit's antique shop before lunch, but instead headed over Charles Bridge where we found a cafe for coffee and cake for lunch. It was a pleasant little cafe full of small groups of older women.

It's a very different city to Krakow. There's vastly more affluence - the streets are better maintained and better finished. there's sculpture all about. People are better dressed and there are far more of them out at night drinking, eating and just enjoying being out.
Beautiful buildings around Wenceslas Square

The quality and detail of architecture is extraordinary

Crowds on Charles Bridge
We'd looked up some walks, and one started above where we coffeed, so we took the funicular up, then wandered down along the walk route back to Charles Bridge. We have been amazed by how many tourists are still about considering it is near mid-winter. I can't imagine how packed it must be in peak season, it must be almost impossible to move, and not something we would contemplate. The cold weather has been a lot of fun, and has not stopped us from doing anything.

From Charles Bridge back toward the Old Town


On our way back from the Charles Bridge I looked for our old shop, and amazingly, managed to find it on a back lane. It's a funny old style bric-a-brac place with many small rooms and a scruffy basement area. I had a bit of a surreal chat with the owner with him a Czech and me a New Zealander, but speaking in Prague in French as he didn't have English, and my Czech is a little rusty (!). I found one little glass I bought, and as we were heading out he stopped me and came up with 2 more matching ones in different colours that for some reason had been left in a box of bits and pieces out the back.

Looking in the antique shops has been fun. We both love much of the Czech style. There's so much lovely Art Nouveau about, though the glassware is too fragile to easily carry, and the prices are too much anyway. Our glasses are very chunky and robust, being more Deco.

Back into the main square as it had become dark, and indeed was snowing just a little. We took our time heading back towards our apartment, through the throngs of people out and about.

Main square at night
Near home we'd seen a Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Hong Phuc, and felt the need for some fresh crispy veges so went in to give it a try. It was excellent and probably the best Vietnamese we've had outside Vietnam, and in reality, probably tastier than there too! We will definitely be back there. One bonus of non-local restaurants in Europe is that they tend not to be so frequented by locals, and can often be better value. This one certainly was.

So a very interesting and enjoyable day in what is probably our favourite city anywhere.






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